US and NZ Bases

Day 19. Wednesday 29 January – Ross Island: Furthest South for Spirit of Enderby: 

McMurdo Station, Scott Base and Discovery Hut

Noon position: Latitude 77^o 51.145’South; Longitude 166^o38.527’East

Air temperature: -5^oC, Water temperature: 0^oC

We anchored in Winter Quarters Bay in McMurdo Sound at 6am in 63 metres of water and prepared for what would be a busy day. It was a cool -5^oC and a brisk wind was ruffling the sea. 

Many landmarks that feature in Antarctic history came into view. Mt Erebus was largely obscured, however visible in a clockwise direction were:Turtle Rock, and on the Hut Point Peninsula, Danger Slopes, Arrival Heights, Castle Rock, The Gap, Observation Hill and Cape Armitage followed by the McMurdo Ice Shelf which links into the Ross Ice Shelf, White Island, Black Island and Mt Discovery (2680 m). Further to the west the low morning sun lit up the snow and the pale brown slopes at the entrance to the Taylor Dry Valley. 

In the foreground we were confronted with the massive infrastructure comprising the US McMurdo Station established here as AIROPFAC (Air Operating Facility) in 1955 for the USN Operation Deep Freeze One. To port was Hut Point with Scott’s Discovery Hut (1902) and on a nearby promontory Vince’s Cross; both almost lost and dwarfed by the fuel tanker Maersk Peary at the artificial ice pier. This had carried super refined diesel fuel all the way from Greece. On Crater Hill above ‘The Gap’ which leads to New Zealand’s Scott Base, sat the three wind turbines which have contributed to a substantial energy cost saving for the NZ and US programs.

 Expedition leader Rodney had gone to a considerable effort making arrangements with the cooperation of both McMurdo Station and Scott Base so that we could visit the bases. 

 Following an early breakfast we set off in Zodiacs in small groups 20 minutes apart. The sea ice had gone out (only a few days before apparently!) and to land we nosed into a frozen earthen bank below the US station, with the permafrost clearly visible at around 30 cms depth. 

 There we were met by our guide Kimbly, an IT specialist, who led us on a walking tour. The Base supports abut 800 research and service people, down from over 1000 due to the Economic dowturn which has slashed government funds.

Our first stop was at the Crary Laboratory (Albert P. Crary 1911-1987) and Eklund Biological Centre (Carl Eklund 1909-1912) opened 4 November 1991. The tour of this impressive building began in the marine science lab where live fish are usually held in the large tanks. Beverly explained the research being undertaken on Antarctic tooth fish and invertebrates. Various informative posters were viewed along with glass display cabinets housing fish, seal skulls, marine invertebrates (to Jane's delight!) and assorted artefacts including a ship’s kerosene lantern ca.1930-1950 found in 15 metres off Hut Point.

Ice fish

Skull of Antarrctic Tooth fish

Liz then met us at the NSF (National Science Foundation Division Programs) Chalet where we viewed the Felix de Weldon bronze bust of Rear Admiral Richard E. Byrd, beside which were plaques commemorating the US Navy and 50^th Anniversary of Operation Deep Freeze all surrounded by the flags of all the nations on the Antarctic treaty. 

The next stop was Building 155. This contained the Mess hall, some accommodation, offices and ship’s store or PX where a few souvenirs could be obtained. Other accommodation was in three large three-story blocks with such names as Mammoth Mountain Inn and Hotel California.

There were several full time cooks and assistants (food is very important in this harsh environment) but most other service staff were researches doing extra or rostered duties.

Recreation on their one day off and evenings was a big item; various staff and researchers formed at least four bands for evening entertainment at the several bars.

One of theTaverns decorated with historic sleds, skis and snowshoes

We were briefed outside the Emergency casualty hut'. There is only one general doctor/surgeon but he/she is assisted by other staff/researchers who receive extra training for assisting operations and other emergency activities.

A short walk led us to the Chapel of the Snows. A peaceful building with beautiful stained glass window and outlook across the Sound, it had the altar allegedly from the former St. Saviours Church at Lyttelton, where Scott had worshiped. In a cabinet was the Erebus chalice thought to be linked (by the Hallmarks) to Scott’s last expedition. This is stored in Christchurch Cathedral each winter, then handed over at the start of the new Antarctic season. At one stage historian and obsessive collector of artifacts, David, a friend of the donor Miss Betty Bird of Auckland, had the silver-gilt chalice in his possession. Summer Chaplin Mike Beyer of the Air National Guard, provided a commentary on the use of the Chapel; the most southern in Antarctica. By agreement the one chapel serves all religions - a terrific example of cooperation between religions for the rest of the world.(The photo shows that the local Ambulance was attending one of our party who was feeling faint).

The final places visited were Mac Ops where Shelley discussed pre-field trip communications; Mac Centre (air traffic control ), where JT (Jerry) said three flights were due from Christchurch, five were being flown to the South Pole today and ‘texting’ can even be done from the aircraft. At present the Pegasus blue ice runway for wheeled aircraft had over a meter of water on it; hence the use of ski-equipped LC130 Hercules, one of which we saw from Cape Evans, and now using the snow ski-way at Williams Field. We also met Sandy the Helo Ops Controller (for helicopters used to access field stations and for emergencies), then moved on to Mac Weather where Arthur with computer screens, carefully explained climate modelling and problems with forecasting weather in Antarctica. 

We had a coffee and cookies (it was ‘Mexican Day’) in the coffee shop/wine bar with movie theatre that occupies the oldest building on the station. Finally after a photo shoot at the McMurdo Station sign we said goodbye to the very friendly and hospitable staff. They had given up their time to assist us and extend our knowledge of the United States Antarctic program (USAP). We then returned to the ship for lunch.

During the afternoon we visited New Zealand’s Scott Base – our furthest south point, 77o 51'. This base caters for only 80 people. People from the US base were prohibited from visiting except by invitation - presumably because their numbers could swamp the NZs (or eat all their supplies). 

We were taken in two vehicles from the McMurdo Base over the hill to the NZ station three kilometres away. From The Gap we could see the sea ice had largely broken out. A science team was busy observing whales of which pods of 30 Minkes have been reported and Rodney said a helicopter had observed 100 Orcas. At Scott Base we were welcomed by Julie Patterson, Antarctica New Zealand’s HR officer. Staff then took us in small groups on our tour of the complex. 

This began at the TAE/IGY Hut. The prefabricated building was the first erected at Scott Base and was opened in January 1957.
Hut A as it was then known, then contained the mess/lounge, galley, radio-room and the late Sir Edmund Hillary’s bunk (which he had built himself).  







His office had a nostalgic painting of his NZ home on the wall, and some interesting scientific instruments. Later the hut was used for additional accommodation. The building is about to be taken over by the Antarctic Heritage Trust . 

We enjoyed seeing the gallery of all winter-over photographs over the years, each group trying to do something to look different. In the salubrious new dining room overlooking the Bay, we enjoyed afternoon tea cookies baked by the winter-over chef and a former Spirit of Enderby chef. Off this area is the Tatty Flag Bar along with a comfortable lower-level lounge area. 

There was also a photo of a dinner to celebrate Scott's birthday on June 6th, 1911.

Our tour of Scott Base concluded with a visit to the retail shop, (our last chance to buy souvenirs from Antarctica) then a photo shoot beside the “pou” (Maori carving) and sign in front of the base (see below).

On leaving the base Drew joined the group that were taken up a side road that once led to the former US nuclear power station and from there, joined the walking track up the 230 m Observation Hill, named during the Discovery Expedition (1901-1904) (Jane stayed behind since the loose scree on the slope didn't sound like fun). 
From the hill there were good overviews of both bases and out into the Bay. While up there, the USCGC icebreaker Polar Star WAGB10 after escorting the tanker out, pulled up by the ice pier. We then returned to the ship to wait our turn to visit Hut Point. 

NZ Scott base

US McMurdo base

At 7 pm we went back onshore to visit Scott's Discovery Hut on Hut Point. This visit was courtesy of the Programme Manager for Antarctic Heritage Trust’s Ross Sea Conservation Project. Only the hut is within the SPA. Inside David explained that each of the huts we have seen is quite different. This hut in particular has layers of history with the main focus the Ross Sea Party 1914-1917, and the privations of the men who lived here in the dark days of early winter 1916. The three post-Discovery expeditions all used the hut as a staging post before heading south. 

 

Although many artefacts had been packed away to enable essential carpentry to be done, sufficient remained for us to appreciate the history of this historic Australian building. 

Yet another memorial, to perished explorers Mackintosh and Hayward; our ship in the background.

View back to the USCGC icebreaker Polar Star (that had just rescue another Russian ship) at the ice wharf and McMurdo base from the cross on the point.

Apart from Macquarie Island, this was the only time we really appreciated the cold. While standing around on the snow it was biting in through our gum boots that we had to wear for the 'wet landing'. While waiting our turn to visit the hut, the slight breeze really penetrated any crevices in our clothing. I could well appreciate the golden rule on the bases: NEVER venture outside a building without your outer layers. (jacket and overpants, beanie and gloves) even for a quick trip between buildings. 

 An early to bed night followed a very different day to those preceding. 

From here we would heading north again, on our way home.