Coastwatchers of Carnley Harbour - Auckland Island

Day 6. Thursday 16 January – Auckland Island

Noon position: Latitude 50^o48.80’South; Longitude 160^o04’East

Air temperature: 12.1^oC, Water temperature: 11^oC

Next morning  went out on deck to enjoy our entry into deep Carnley Harbour, which is the caldera of the ancient Carnley volcano that encompassed Auckland Island on the north and Adam Island on the south . The Harbour continues getting narrower until there is only a narrow dangerous exit on the western side. The westerly wind made the sea choppy and we were treated to seeing large numbers of Shearwaters. The sun lit up the hillsides and vegetation with red-flowering Rata on the lower slopes leading to the yellow-brown of the tussock grasses above. Shelves of black volcanic rock stood out. We anchored in Tagua Bay (the centre of the volcano), off Musgrave peninsular, .  Adams Island is a complete reserve with no landings allowed except for research.

From the human history perspective, this is an interesting locality. Historic sites include the remains of the Grafton (1864) along with remains of the rock-walled hut (Epigwaitt,  the ‘house by the sea’); near the southern end of Coleridge Bay, where there was a castaway hut linked to the Anjou (1905); finger posts for directions to castaway depots; at the head of North Arm, the ‘Erlangen clearing’ where Rata was felled for fuel by crew of the Erlangen (1939) and coast-watcher huts from the Cape Expedition (World War 2).

Two parties went ashore today. The first group of twenty two led by Rodney to bush-bash and wade through tussock and fell fields to the summit of Hill 360(m). The hill was surveyed by coast watchers during World War 2. 

The hill climbing party had a challenging but rewarding trip. It took around four hours to reach the top of the hill. Initially they had to bush bash, threading their way through the dense scrub, but were rewarded with sightings of Yellow-crowned Parakeets. Clare reported that on “one had to be a contortionist, as you clambered over and under bushes”. However on reaching the tussock, the going was no easier with Stephen saying “because of the peat beneath the tussock, it was a challenge to find suitable foot placement”. Once past the tussock, low scrub was encountered. On finally arriving at the top they were rewarded with five nesting Gibson’s Wandering Albatross and excellent views, included the site where the Erlangen crew cleared Rata forest. In addition this group also saw lots of  plants including - Damnamenia; Helichrysum bellidioides; Bulbinnela rossi; Astelia subulata and orchids Lyperanthus antarcticus, Aporostylis bifola and Corybas spec. It only took two hours to descend and all were back on the ship by 4pm. (We could see the climbers looking like coloured ants)

We had had enough of tussocks on Enderby Island so took the less strenuous option of hiking from the landing place to visit the remains of the coast-watchers No.2 station huts; then to continue to the restored Coast-watchers well-concealed look-out. From there was a commanding view through the trees to the entrance of Carnley Harbour. 

 Remains of huts in the forest

 Reconstructed Coastwatchers lookout hut

We also were excited to spot some Bell birds, 

green-hood orchids Thelymitra longifolia (below left)and 

club moss Lycopodium varium (below right), but no introduced pests such as mice, cats or pigs. 

We arrived back to the ship for a late salad and nachos lunch and leisurely afternoon, feeling sorry for the hill climbing party as the weather had deteriorated with wind gusting up to 30 knots along with rain and spells of light hail.

This evening our chefs provided a superb meal starting with an entreè of antipasto which included fresh salmon, mussels, prawns, cheese, olives and sundried tomato. For the main course we had the choice of pork belly or lamb rack both of which were superb (or a vegetarian option). The desert was a coconut pancetta with fruit compote. The chefs were very good and ensuring at least one of the mains was gluten free for the two ‘serious’ coeliacs, although we mostly had to forgo the lovely deserts, mostly getting by on stewed or fresh fruit.

Katya held the species list meeting then everyone retired to prepare themselves for two days of rough seas en route to Macquarie Island.

After our last peaceful night's sleep for a while, we woke to a bleak day with rain and the sun trying valiantly to shine through.

  

The anchor was lifted at 7 am next morning and by 8 am with breakfast over we were heading out of Carnley Harbour. Once we had left the shelter of Adams Island the sea became very rough, 

 The gusts of wind were strong enough to blow a waterfall UP the cliff face! (see below)